mastermind JAPAN is a fashion label founded by Masaaki Homma in 1997. mastermind JAPAN has been a higher-end brand, mixing quality with its signature skulls and bones logo. Each piece is made in Japan, and proudly displays it in the tags, along with a list of names of people that helped create the piece of clothing. mastermind JAPAN produces collaborations and pieces with the likes of Dover Street Market, Stussy, adidas Originals and Bamford Watch Department. Lacking a formal education in fashion, Homma, who previously worked at Yohji Yamamoto, spontaneously decided to launch the label in 1997 at Tokyo Fashion Week. Quickly faced with huge debts as his pieces did not sell. As a last ditch attempt, Homma attended the SEHM joint exhibition in Paris, where a warm reception persuaded him to continue. In his third year in attendance, Homma received a significant order that gave a large cash injection to the brand as well as solidifying its high quality stance. In 2013, Homma decided to stop the brand’s seasonal deliveries, however, continues its collaboration with different big brands.

TOKYO — Skeletons are rattling in the world of high fashion as mastermind Japan reappears for the first time since disappearing from the spotlight four years ago.

The internationally acclaimed Japanese brand — characterized by its distinctive skull and crossbones logo — hopes to broaden its reach, opening a flagship store next spring in Tokyo to target the growing number of foreign tourists ahead of the 2020 Tokyo Olympics.

The brand came back to life after apparel retailer TSI Holdings clinched a deal with mastermind Japan.Despite the stratospheric price tags, inquiries have already been pouring in for the brand’s 200,000 yen to 400,000 yen ($1,800 to $3,600) blousons, mostly from wealthy Asians, TSI said.The brand is currently available at a pop-up store inside So-Cal Link Omotesando, a trendy commercial facility in Tokyo operated by TSI.

Open through Sunday, the store features mainly black interiors and a selection of blousons and other clothing with skull and bones emblazoned on the back hanging near walls. The brand offers about 300 different items at its famously bloated prices: T-shirts range from about 50,000 yen to 80,000 yen with blousons starting at 200,000 yen and going all the way up to 400,000 yen. And there is also that warm fur coat for a cool 3 million yen.

The company mastermind Japan was established in 1997 by designer Masaaki Honma, who maximized the made-in-Japan appeal of the brand to charm customers worldwide. The artfully embroidered products made of premium-grade materials attract the rich and famous of Hollywood and Asia. The brand is also known for its attention to detail, as evidenced by pockets, where even the texture of fabric is carefully considered.

In 2013, mastermind Japan discontinued its collection. However, Takahiko Miyake, president of TSI subsidiary Isolar, wanted to sign the sales contract, believing that it “will go down well around the world.”Current plans call for two mastermind lines: mastermind Japan for the Japanese market and mastermind World for overseas markets. The pop-up store is offering products from both lines. With a further increase in tourists expected ahead of the Olympics, mastermind’s strong brand appeal may prove tempting to foreign visitors.TSI will begin offering its collections online from Sept. 14 in Japan, the U.S. and elsewhere. However, the mastermind Japan line will not be available to customers outside Japan. The company feels that maintaining its “available-only-in-Japan” exclusivity will increase brand value.Recently, made-in-Japan clothing brands have started drawing attention overseas. The D’urban menswear brand from Renown along with Factelier are both available now in China and Taiwan.

In Japan’s anemic apparel industry, cheap fashion brands are getting stronger. But Miyake says that mastermind can compete with the low-cost brands.

“Because of its special quality, [mastermind] will sell well in Japan, too,” he added.